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The gulf to the east is sprinkled with islands, some like the Holmön and Norrbyskär archipelagos are summer retreats. And on the riverfront are brand new, eye-catching architectural statements like the contemporary art museum, Bildmuseet, and the peculiar lines of the Kulturväven, cultural centre. This beautifully laid out musical trove was assembled from the 70s on by two brothers, and many of the guitars have had famous owners.
On the eastern edge of Umeå is a museum for the Västerbotten County, revealing the history and unique culture of this part of northern Sweden. Some 40 historic buildings from around the county have been dismantled and rebuilt at the outdoor museum, among which are a threshing house, farmhouse and bakery.
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Finally, the ski museum studies the long history of this Nordic mode of transport, and has a preserved ski, so old that it predates the Egyptian pyramids. After closing down in the s and being sold off, the hospital and its extensive parkland were chosen by the developer Balticgruppen for an annual now biannual outdoor art exhibition.
This company has purchased a sculpture from each exhibition, gradually amassing more than 40 works and permanently installing them in this evocative environment. This is the new home of the Bildmuseet, unveiled in and set within the riverside Umeå Arts Campus. The building, easily identified by its square lines and windows in random positions, was designed by Henning Larsen Architects and has been lauded internationally.
There are six split-level floors for short-term contemporary art exhibitions, all with far-reaching views over the river. The shows are rotated every few months , so there will always be a different experience each time you come. You can expect anything from contemporary Chinese art to architectural photography or industrial design by the likes of Charles and Ray Eames.
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This red brick edifice is on the same ground as the former 17th-century building, facing the river harbour, which was a vital means of transport before the railway arrived. Lindström gave his building a Neo-Renaissance design, with a Dutch influence in its crow-stepped gable and mullioned windows. The towers were purposely asymmetrical and have different outlines, bringing some playfulness to the silhouette.
The centre is in essence two buildings that fuse together over the street, and is a surprising muddle of amenities, visitor attractions and performance venues. This Neo-Gothic edifice was designed Fredrik Olaus Lindström and built according guidelines set out by Helgo Zettervall who designed and restored churches and cathedrals all over Sweden at the end of the 19th century.
In the 19th century this was the scene of a huge water-powered sawmill responsible for cutting down large swathes of woodland.
Starting in the s, this became somewhere to appreciate foliage as an arboretum was planted along the left bank of the river. It is now made up of 1, trees and shrubs from around species, sourced from all over the world. In former army barracks is a kid-friendly science museum that opened in and runs during term time. A trip well worth making, this industrial attraction is in the town of Normaling, under half an hour down the coast.
The special thing about this factory is just how much of its original equipment is still here, like a water-powered trip hammer and its blower, an 18th-century blast furnace and a forge where the iron would be honed into all manner of items. The museum has ancient rock carvings of moose, as well as collections of giant antlers and displays explaining the life of a moose in each of the seasons.
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These creatures are also milked, and this goes into a few of the treats served at the cafe and is also used to make cheese that you can purchase. On what had been uninhabited islands, the timber industrialist Frans Kempe established a Utopian working community around the largest steam-powered sawmill in Europe. Holmön only has 70 or so permanent residents, but in the warmer month is a delight for its untouched nature, quaint homes and all the things you can get up to outside.
You can hire a bike and go where you please, discovering secret beaches, coasting through aromatic woodland and chancing upon little lakes and ponds. You can also sail a traditional sloop, the kind that kept these remote communities in touch with the mainland. This festival is about to celebrate its 20th anniversary in The Umeå Jazz Festival in October is now coming up for its 40th anniversary and stages around 30 concerts at various venues in the city.
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